Day in Ginzan Onsen
Ginzan Onsen is one of Japan’s most picturesque hot spring towns, buried deep in the mountains of Yamagata Prefecture. If you’ve ever wanted to feel like you’ve stepped into a nostalgic postcard or an old Japanese film, this is the place. The town is lined with beautifully preserved Taisho-era (1912-1926) wooden ryokan (traditional inns), which light up like something out of a dream once the sun goes down. The name Ginzan Onsen literally means “Silver Mountain Hot Spring” because it was originally a silver mining town before becoming famous for its hot springs. Today, it attracts visitors looking for a classic onsen experience, complete with yukata-clad strolls and atmospheric, gas-lit lanterns. If you visit in winter, prepare to be blown away—the wooden buildings, blanketed in thick snow, make it look like a real-life Ghibli setting.
Like many of Japan’s most scenic spots, Ginzan Onsen has been grappling with over-tourism, especially in recent years as social media has turned it into a must-visit destination. The town’s fairytale-like charm, particularly in winter, has led to an influx of visitors—many of whom don’t actually stay overnight but instead crowd the narrow streets for quick photo ops. The result? Congested walkways, overwhelmed local businesses, and an overall decline in the tranquil atmosphere that made Ginzan Onsen famous in the first place.
Ginzan Onsen has thus recently introduced restricted access measures, particularly during the winter season when visitor numbers surge. The town’s small, picturesque streets and traditional ryokan were never designed to handle large crowds, leading local authorities to implement new rules aimed at preserving its tranquil atmosphere and ensuring safety.
One of the main restrictions applies to day-trippers visiting between 5 PM and 8 PM. During this period, access is limited to 100 visitors per hour, and an advance reservation system has been introduced. Those who wish to visit must purchase a ticket, which costs ¥1,200 per person and includes a shuttle bus ride. This measure is designed to prevent overcrowding while still allowing controlled access for non-staying visitors. After 8 PM, entry is even more restricted, with only overnight guests, residents, and employees allowed in the town. Private vehicles are turned away during this time to reduce congestion and maintain the serene nighttime ambiance for those staying in the area. This means that anyone hoping to capture the iconic lantern-lit scenery in the evening must book accommodation in one of the ryokan. To further regulate visitor flow, Ginzan Onsen has implemented a park-and-ride system. Day-trippers are required to park at the Taisho Romankan, a designated tourist centre located about 2 kilometres away, and then take a shuttle bus to the hot spring town. This system helps prevent traffic buildup in the narrow streets and maintains the area’s historical aesthetic.
These restrictions are part of a broader effort to balance tourism with preservation, ensuring that Ginzan Onsen retains its charm while offering a more enjoyable experience for both visitors and locals.