Sushi Master

A sushi master (or itamae, meaning “in front of the board” in Japanese) is a highly skilled chef specialising in the art of sushi-making. Becoming an itamae isn’t just about knowing how to slice fish and roll rice—it’s a gruelling, years-long apprenticeship that demands precision, patience, and an almost religious devotion to technique.

Rice is the foundation of sushi, and perfecting it is an art in itself. The balance of vinegar, sugar, and salt must be precise, the texture must be consistent, and the temperature must be carefully controlled. A sushi master understands that rice is not just a base but an essential component that enhances the fish. Knives are equally important, with sushi chefs using specialised blades like the yanagiba to slice fish with surgical precision. The wrong cut can alter texture, affecting the entire experience of the dish. Beyond technique, a sushi master must develop an almost instinctive understanding of fish. Seasonality plays a key role, as the flavour and texture of seafood change throughout the year. Masters know when a fish is at its peak and how to enhance it through aging, curing, or marination. Some, like legendary chef Keiji Nakazawa, use meticulous ageing techniques to bring out deeper umami flavours, while others focus on ultra-fresh, minimalist preparations.